The irony of success is when we lose ourselves in it. The fickle thing is that everyone wants it, not everyone has it and even when we do, some are not able to handle it. As our society today considers fame and fortune to be the Holy Grail of our sense of purpose, living a life in an attitude of a happy medium is hushed as insufficient. Yet it is shattering to hear the news about great talents leaving this world prematurely. Just these past few months we saw the loss of two, Alexander McQueen and Michael Jackson. How disturbing to think they had what many would consider to be the winning lottery ticket of life: fame, fortune and success. Or did they? What made them and so many others get lost in (their) success?
It is obvious that they lived under extreme pressure to succeed, which ended up absorbing life out of them. Discovering their past childhood, we realized how their dysfunctional families had made their short-lived lives difficult and unhappy. While no one family is perfect nor needs to be, the ability to cope and to have a balanced life would bring out the best potential in all of us. How to overcome failure and challenge is vital for success, and having emotional support from loved ones is crucial for survival. Both seemed to be missing for Alexander McQueen and Michael Jackson.
Of course, there are those who argue that their childhood was what caused their genii, their source of strength and their drive. However, it remains difficult to think an insufferable and miserable upbringing can bring out the genius in someone when most specialists believe geniuses are born as geniuses regardless of their environment. Look at the genius talent of Pablo Picasso who was nurtured as a very young boy. His euphoric artistic career excelled beyond belief while living a life of harmony with his art, friends and family to a ripe old age of 92.
There are exceptions, where the horrible ‘family legacy’ of a painful childhood brought out delicate sensitivity and a subtle visionary, such as Doris Lessing.She coped and survived thanks to her fantastic imagination which led to her happy vocation as a writer, earning her the Nobel Peace Prize. In this case, her agony and memories led to her creativity. This shows two opposed cases of possible sources of success: what must be remembered is the importance of awareness in dealing with what life brings, making the best out of it, by keeping harmony and balance, even when doing so seems impossible.
Below a great documentary “George Michael, a different story” showing how he dealt with success and almost drowned in it during the “Wham!” period… And what was needed: A heavy dose of business acumen to learn how to swim with sharks.
There are many ways of capturing facial expressions in an image. It seems that photographer Thibault Grabherr has found an interesting twist for the “in the eyes” project.
Actresses are the masters of creating an emotion through facial expressions. Erase all the glamorous artefact: hair, heavy make up and focus on the eyes. Very light retouching and through their eyes you may find a window to their soul.
The concept was birthed by two visual artists: Thibault Grabherr, Photographer and Christophe Durand, Make-up artist & Creative Director
ThibaultGrabherr assisted Dominique Issermann for three years. He began his career as a photographer in 2000 and started working on film sets where he befriended numerous actors and actresses whom he photographed for French magazines the likes of Madame Figaro, Elle, Paris Match, Studio and Première Magazines (Liv Tyler, Sophie Marceau, Shu Qi, Gael Garcia Bernal, Yvan Attal, Marc Ruffalo…)
ChristopheDurand is a multi-faceted artist. Widely renowned in the world of beauty and luxury as a make up artist for the brands of Zenith, Tag Heuer, Chopard and many others rely on his talent for their advertising campaigns. Creative Director of two cosmetic brands: Bourjois and UNE a brand new line recently launched under the Chanel-Bourjois umbrella. Celebrities Eva Herzigova, Tiger Woods, Lewis Hamilton, Maria Sharapova, Maggie Cheung, Gong Li and Emmanuelle Seigner have been privy to his expert makeup artistry. For twenty years, he has orchestrated fashion shows for Thierry Mugler, Kenzo and Paul Smith. A true leader in his field, Chrisophe created ICON magazine as a visual extension of his creativity. Behind this ICON of fashion also lies the heart of a man who has chosen to use his success to finance the construction of orphanages in Calcutta, India. Christophe Durand is truly an artist for all seasons and can quite comfortably reside in all of them.
For those who are interested in acquiring one of his portraits, they can be purchased in very limited edition. They exist in two formats: 120cm x150cm or 80cmx100cm. Contact here.
Christophe Durand at his best… (Sorry video available in French only…)
Blow Up Directed by Michelangelo Antonioni was a film loosely based on the life of David Bailey and was one of the first films I ever saw relating to the Fashion Biz. In fact, it was the first time I was ever exposed to fashion from the vantage point of a photographer.
It was a real eye opener for me in many respects and may have subconsciously effected how I perceived myself within the “BIZ”. Things have certainly changed however. If I treated models the way David Hemmings did, the chances of my getting models in the future would be severely diminished and I would probably get a swift kick in the Balls! I really love the set designs, the clothing and the make-up & hair. Some serious experimentation was going on here and the creative spirit of the 60′s time frame is so well expressed throughout the film. Also, check out the music, tantalizingly tacky with a scene of the Yardbirds doing a gig at a club in London. Both Sarah Miles and Vanessa Redgrave are absolutely wonderful in this cult film. There is also an appearance with model Veruschka von Lehndorff.
So many of today’s photographers have been influenced by the simplicity and sparseness of the 60′s. Steven Meisel comes to mind when seeing this, but he recreated the ambiance 40 years later. I consider this epoch as one of the most creative in Fashion Photography. But from a Sociological perspective, we have come a long way. None the less Blow Up stands as one of the most important films of the century, as it so well ensconces the paradigm of that time frame from almost all of the disciplinary vantage points; Music, Fashion, Photography, Architecture, Psychology, Philosophy and Sociology.
Hope you enjoy these videos as much as I do and perhaps they might spark your creative juices.
Celebrity branding is a marketing strategy as old as Julius Caesar’s stamped coins. Masses recognizing superstars catapulted sales of their preferred brands. This interweaving between fashion houses and celebrities is something we grew up with but is it still working? No, not like it used to. Today sophisticated, role modeled celebrities are respected and sought after over the superficial, self-centered ones.
Our world believes in limited resources. Opulence and extravagance are no longer a sign of prestige but seen as insensitive and arrogant. Are we praising Victoria Beckham’s $800,000 Italian shopping spree? What counts today is the intrinsic value, social and environmental sustainability of our fashion choices. We are becoming responsible and selective. I call this fashion wisdom.
This decade is shifting our focus towards an ethical consumption. Gone is the ‘bling-bling’ era that held its crown for the past 18 years. It has been replaced with a discreet fashion. The logo mania of these past trends is now seen as an eye sore. Gucci, Louis Vuitton, YSL are a few who understand this and carefully designed subdued pieces in their past few collections. Superficial and ostentatious designs are out!
People now care about the small details. Where it is made, how it is made. Fashion wisdom is oozing into the mainstream and it is no longer exclusively about the celebrity. Consumers are taking a more active approach with their purchases. Some fashion houses still try their luck with these types of pretentious and insubstantial celebrities only to have media disasters. Let’s see what Kate Moss will come up with at Longchamp. Lindsay Lohan’s gag reflex fashion show debut for Emanuel Ungaro.
Sarah Jessica Parker receiving deep opposition as the Creative Director for Halston. It is no longer enough to be a superstar!
Today we are looking for celebrities that make a difference in our world. What began as a green approach has now infiltrated to branding. Fashion houses responded quickly by signing on celebrities that add more then just stardom such as with Michelle Obama who is often headliner news for her wardrobe.
This new form of thinking is exponentially growing throughout fashion industry creating an incredible opportunity to improve on the once archaic thinking and manufacturing. Constant evolution and adaptation is what keeps this fashion world exciting. Below is an example of the message of what “Luxury” can be perceived as without celebrity affiliation. This is an incredible video!
As a designer I am always curious to see what sells and how it sells. Selling is the meal ticket for all commodities even in fashion. If we do not sell then we can no longer continue to make the doughnuts, so to speak. This brings me to an observation which I am finding to be interesting as well as upsetting:
How did we come to this juncture in time where the public judges the quality of the product solely on the notoriety of the brand name? We have become obsessive compulsive brand addicts. It has gotten to the point where we would buy a knock-off just to say that we have a known BRAND!
Personally, if I cannot have the real thing then I do not want it. Period!
What I find fascinating is the Parisians dress basically the same as the folks in my hometown of Burlington. Iowa. WTF!! How can this be? What happened to individuality? How have we all become the same in appearance as chocolate chip cookies? The Gap, H&M, Uniqlo, Blue Navy, Morgan, etc. Does this bother anyone else besides me?
I love rummaging through The Salvation Army or Emmaüs or Guerrisol or anyother thrift / secondhand store in high hopes of finding an incredible gem for myself or for my home. Vintage shoes are definitely one of the things I love to hunt for. Mega businesses began with this concept such as Martha Stewart or Restoration Hardware or Ralph Lauren. The timeless beauty you found in the vintage past, often finding luxury brandnames for a steal, was so worth the effort and time needed to dig through the pile of stuff. But more importantly I bought, and still buy, things that I love whether it has a brand name to it or not. This keeps me true to me and ecclectic in my sense of style. I am not nor do I want to become a cookie cutter when it comes to fashion. True, I live in my 501 Levi’s jeans but the rest is sooooo me that I am distinctive in my sense of style.
And then there are the likes of Kate Moss (…a gifted, brilliant Fashion Designer!), Sienna Miller & Madonna… If you wish to be part of the cookie cutter generation, you can go ahead and FOLLOW their lead. That would be the easiest way of fitting into their mold.
We, in my opinion, are in a very unoriginal period in fashion, music and film industries. I do get excited when I see an independent musician, film director or fashion designer doing something so true and new, often on a shoe-string budget. Unfortunately, it doesn’t last long once they are discovered, packaged, sold and regurgitated.
So help me understand why there is such a need of possessing Givenchy, YSL, Louis Vuitton or whatever other brand name that is HOT at this moment. Is it for the prestige? For comfort? For notoriety? For confidence? For power? For being part of a Group or a Tribe? This obsession is akin to Herd Mentality. We are the sheep following the proverbial Sheppard. I admit I am a big fan of brands when it comes to quality: Hermès works leather magically as Bugatti makes gorgeous cars and the red soles of Christian Louboutin‘s shoes leave a lasting impression. These brands understand artisanal values and represent the epitome of excellence in design , integrity and know how.
So go ahead choose your brand, but do so with discernment and with the understanding of the real reason you are attracted to that object of desire. It could be as simple as “I just LOVE it!”
Portrait of French Designer Alexis Mabille photographed by Benjamin Kanarek for Vogue Brasil
Image taken in July 2009 at Alexis Mabille’s show-room in Paris. Photography: Benjamin Kanarek for Vogue Brasil featuring Alexis Mabille
Model: Myrthe Mabille
Digital Retouching: Fredddy Baby Paris
July 2009, interview of Alexis Mabille by Suzy Menkes for the International Herald Tribune & the New York Times.
Alexis Mabille discovered fashion at a very young age, attracted and inspired by fabrics, costumes, antique jewlery,and museums he visited as a child. As a teenager, he would put together theatrical pieces as well as outfits for his friends and family. Graduating from Paris’ Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in 1997, he undertook apprenticeships at the Couture Houses of Ungaro and Nina Ricci. He then joined the team at Christian Dior . At Dior, he created exquisite fine jewelry for Women and Men, both respectively overseen by John Galliano and by Hedi Slimane.
As a kind of a quirky signature, Alexis can always be seen wearing a bow tie. In 2005, he embarked on his own personal adventure and created his own Fashion House and decided that the bow tie which accompanied him thus far would become his lucky charm, his special signature. Since, doing so he has utilized bow ties in novel ways in all of his collections.
He also designs a Mens’ collection and a Womens’ accessory collection (bags, shoes, jewlery). His faux-casual and romantic touch marries the hyper feminine with the influence of the perfect cut androgen tuxedo look.
To build a sustainable business, his challenge is to evolve from the cute and gimmicky identity of the bow tie to a timeless style. Alexis Mabille deserves credit for developing a signature company that is pragmatic and focussed in this economic malaise. At a time where Christian Lacroix and Yohji Yamamoto are facing the worst financial backlash in their history, Alexis has established a loyal customer base and is also offering his collection as a ready-to-wear option.
Alexis Mabille has already gained quite a following amongst Celebrities.
Keira Knightley, Dita Von Teese and the French First Lady, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy wearing Alexis Mabille.
Alexis Mabille’s last collection was inspired by “personal memories from a grand old linen closet, with recollections of distant travels”. Pastel shades, sensual silk and fluid lace contrast with the sharpness of the deep navy blue long gowns and tuxedos. Architectural and geometrical cuts meet with simple, light and gently floating lines.
His fashion is definitely wearable and that is key. Too often, at the early stage of their career designers forget that ready-to-wear and Couture are not Art but an Applied Art to the human form. People do eventually have to wear what is designed and that is often the major challenge that young designers must come to grips with. Clothing is more akin to “Functional Art”. One could make a similar comparison between Sculpture and Architecture. One is pure form and the other is Form and Function. Fashion is business and as entrepreneurs, Designers need to convince Buyers of Department stores and in the end the clients.
If you are looking for spectacular, show-off and breath taken collections using BOWS, I would suggest you take a look at Viktor and Rolf‘s work. Here the bows become an animated, magnified and surreal element of their designs, yet utterly wearable. They have found ways of surprising us with a global concept of excess stretched to the max. However, they never overlook the commercial and viable side of the business. In the final analysis, they know how to downsize their collection prototypes for commercial consumption.
Is BIG necessarily BETTER ?
Viktor and Rolf, Spring-Summer 2005 ready-to-wear collection
Alexis Mabille’s integral Spring-Summer 2010 Collection – part 1
Alexis Mabille’s integral Spring-Summer 2010 Collection – part 2
I was taking a stroll in my neighborhood tonight and as I walked by a couple of men speaking, I hear a familiar voice that I know using a profane French word “Connard” which means asshole. I spun around, looked closely and I was surprised to find that standing there was one of the Great French Actors Vincent Lindon. I walked up to him and said “Vincent, how are you? Remember me, I shot you for “Jardin des Modes” Magazine.” He totally freaked out and I said, “you look like you haven’t aged a bit…” which in my opinion was the case. We chatted for a few minutes and I asked if he still had the images. He said “No, please send them to me…” We spoke about Vahina Giocante as well, which he shot a film with. It was a real pleasure working with him and as usual, a humble human being. As they say a “Real Mensch”. He recently Starred in the 2009 film “Mademoiselle Chambon“. Scroll down to view the trailer.
My neighborhood is a magnet for actors and actresses. Montmartre has always been the place where artists meet.
The Making of Video for Spring Paris Magazine with Actress Vahina Giocante. Shot at the Hôtel Meurice Paris, France.
Hope you enjoy this! I did…
Ben
Film Directed by Romain Sarrot
Editor in Chief, Charles Consigny
Fashion Editor, Daphnée Delamare
Photography by Benjamin Kanarek
Photo Assistant, Ghislain Taschini
Hair by Morgane Degouvestz
Make Up by Marielle Loubet Digital Retouch by Freddy Baby Paris
She coped and survived thanks to her fantastic imagination which led to her happy vocation as a writer, earning her the Nobel Peace Prize. In this case, her agony and memories led to her creativity. This shows two opposed cases of possible sources of success: what must be remembered is the importance of awareness in dealing with what life brings, making the best out of it, by keeping harmony and balance, even when doing so seems impossible.
