Gabrielle CHANEL was a precursor proposing the attributes of male clothing to women to free their movement and participate in their emancipation. Yes, fashion is always one step ahead in the setting of trends.
However, Karl Lagerfeld is taking everyone on this time. The current global warming is provoking the disappearance of the Gulf Stream which seems to be directly leading us in to a new ice age. CHANEL is preparing us to face up to this new reality for next season.
White bears and seals are back on the ice packs and will only have to fear the Orcinus orca, as fantasy fur is a must at CHANEL for next season.
Before the cold hits us all, we sheltered in a cozy ice cave with the musical instrument furniture-sculptures of Pierre Arman presented in the Arman Suite at the Hôtel Lutetia. Brazilian Model Luana Teifke is showcased as the sophisticated CHANEL Yeti-Woman playing a Symphony on Ice.
Photography and Co-Creative Direction by Benjamin Kanarek Co-Creative Direction & Video Direction by Frédérique Renaut
Fashion Editor: Giovanni Frasson
Model: Luana Teifke @ Marilyn Agency, Paris & One Model Management NY
Make Up by Topolino @ Calliste Agency, Paris
Hair by Jean- Luc Amarin @ Airport, Paris
Manicure by Typhaine Kersual @ Jed Root, Paris
Digital Retouching by Freddy Baby, Paris
Digital Montage and Comping by Andrew Matusik at DigitalRetouch, New York
Ghislain Taschini 1st Photo Assistant
Charlotte Fuhr Miller 2nd Photo Assistant
Mustapha Hamma Benjamin Kanarek’s Assistant
Massako Jean-Luc Amarin’s Assistant
It is rare that I do photo shoots without an assistant and or intern. The Photographers Assistant is an important and often under appreciated individual, that I consider the unsung hero.
I cannot tell you how often one of the many assistants with whom I have had the honor to work with, were instrumental to my growth in many areas. Being able to bounce idea’s off of an assistant and gain valuable knowledge on the fly is often key to a successful production. Assistants do a lot more than aid in setting up your lights or loading the SD card or images in to your computer. Many assistants I have worked with are amenable to sharing their idea’s with you about lighting, concept etc. when you are in a tight spot and perhaps are running a bit low in the idea’s bag.
It can happen to anyone. Where you have a concept and it isn’t working as well as you thought and you start freaking out and thinking “Think, think,what can I do to get out of this conundrum…?”
Some assistants may feel uncomfortable or reluctant to share idea’s with you in fear of invading or stepping on your creative space. They would love to but won’t unless you openly and sincerely invite them to do so. Openly invite them to share their idea’s with you if they feel so inclined. I always make sure to give my photo assistants credit in any job I do and they will always appear in the credit of the Fashion or Beauty story being published.
I won’t go in to the technical knowledge attributes that are required from an assistant, as that will depend on what your own requirements are for a specific job. But I do know that most assistants I have worked with are quick learners and are willing to go above and beyond the call of duty when called upon.
My only suggestion, is if you are using a first time apprentice, you might want to use him/her with a more experienced 1st assistant. You should also be open to answering questions at appropriate times that you can set out with the assistant in your morning briefing with the entire team.
As to finding a good assistant, I find that quite easy, in that I am solicited frequently by Photography School students. If you need an assistant, you might consider School Photography Clubs, dedicated Photography Schools or Photography Clubs.
An assistant can learn more in one day doing a hands on session than what they can learn in a month or more by only attending classes.
So the next time you are approached by an enthusiastic assistant, give them a try. You might be pleasantly surprised.
PS: Would love to hear from anyone on either side of this topic regarding your impressions and thoughts.
Being that I live in one of the most beautiful cities in the world Paris and in one of the nicest districts Montmartre, I thought I would share the occasional snap shot with you. Here’s a mixed bag from Montmartre and some other districts of Paris.
Everyone I know in the business have their preferences regarding focal lengths for different applications. I tend to work quite a bit shorter than most when it comes to working in closed quarters in a studio environment. I specify this for a reason. Studio work is a fixed space that you set up lights in and know what those dimensions are for the whole day of the shoot. Unlike interior location shoots where you often have to change settings and adapt your focal lengths to the circumstances.
It is for this reason, that I often find myself using a wide angle zoom in non studio environments. My focal length of choice in 75% of my studio shoots is around 60-75mm i.e. 40-50mm in the 1.5 ratio APS-C sensor cameras. But I tend to shoot closer to the former. I have read on several forums that the majority of shooters tend to shoot quite a bit longer i.e. 90-120mm i.e. 60-80mm 1.5 ration APS-C sensor cameras. I find that getting in closer to the model, allows you to communicate on a different level which in my opinion is more immediate. I am also not that fond of (at least at this juncture in time) of that compressed long focal length look. All of the major brands have focal lengths that fill this criteria.
“Because the image sensors on digital cameras are usually smaller than a frame of traditional 35-mm film, when a lens is used with a DSRL, you need to account for that difference by figuring its effective focal length. For example, a 50-mm lens on a Canon Digital Rebel would have an effective (or “equivalent”) focal length of 80-mm lens when taking into account the camera’s 1.6x magnification. Such magnification factors vary from one brand of camera to another, and sometimes even among models within the same brand.” from Consumer Reports.
I find that getting in closer to the model, allows you to communicate on a different level which in my opinion is more immediate. I am also so that fond (at least at this juncture in time) with that compressed long focal length look.
I have on occasion shot shorter than the above at around 30mm (45mm) APS-C, with very pleasing results, but for this focal length I need to work in studio’s with very high ceilings, as I more often than not am sitting or lying on the floor when shooting. I also need the much larger seamless when using this wider focal length or just work off of a bare studio cyclo wall.
Shooting at these shorter focal lengths most certainly have a distinctively modern edgy look about them (at least for now)… So don’t be afraid to experiment with shorter than the recommended norm for fashion work. It may give you a bit of the edge to stand out from the rest of the very highly populated crowd.
I have had several requests to see more Making Of Video’s. Unfortunately, before I can post these films, I have to wait for the magazine to either be published in hard copy or to get permission from the magazine to post. That usually coincides with their own posting of the shoot as a teaser on their website or blog or other social networking page.
Shortly we will be posting several different Harper’s BAZAAR shoots and a Special Feature CHANEL shoot done for VOGUE Brazil.
If you want to make any suggestions about what you might want to see, just write to us and give us your feedback.
I would love to hear from readers of this blog what you would like to see, hear and talk about on BK Blog. Would you like to see a forum, workshops, guests in this and other disciplines?
The Importance of Cultural and Intellectual Diversity in the Team
I have had an opportunity to observe many different works by many photographers and what has struck me of late is the diversity in dimension of this microcosm of society . Of course this is a mirroring of the range of characteristics in the society as a whole. But my reasons for bringing this observation forward has more to do with the demands I make on myself to grow and enrich my life experience by associating with individuals who might enrich the value of our projects with their input.
Am I doing some sort of subliminal profiling? I think I am. I was watching an LA Fashion Photographer who has her own blog state during one of her making of video’s that she didn’t want her shoot to look too “LA”. Although she is a native Angeleno she wanted to distance herself from that stigma. I understand her reasoning, but felt that the results did not really reflect that desire. If you haven’t the necessary culture, it is a rather daunting task when you haven’t the cultural vocabulary for doing so.
I find that surrounding myself with highly educated and culturally rich individuals add a wonderfully profound layer to what I am seeking to accomplish and I have been pleasantly surprised on many occasions by the outcome of my shoots due to this aspect of a production.
As has been said often, “The greater the vocabulary the richer your life…” and I don’t necessarily mean financially. This applies to all of the Arts as can be witnessed to a greater degree in cinema and literature.
So the next time you are putting a theme together for that important editorial of yours, consider all of the components of your team.
In 1990, the US Space Shuttle put the Hubble in to orbit. It carried the most accurate and clearest ever telescope. Gradually it has unveiled the secrets of the Universe.
On the 20th anniversary of Hubble’s launching, Harper’s BAZAAR has invited photographer Benjamin Kanarek to lead an International team of outstanding on-camera and off-camera talent to replicate the dream-like and miraculous experience of reaching the moon and to enjoy the spectacular beauty of the boundless universe together with the anniversary of Harper’s BAZAAR China.
Digital Retouching by Freddy Baby, Paris
Digital Montage and Comping by Andrew Matusik at DigitalRetouch, New York
Fashion Editor’s Assistants: Ronan Pecher & Olivier Pichou
Photographer 1st Assistant: Audrey Saulem
Photographer 2nd Assistant: Timothée D’Arco
Set Designer and Prop Assistant: Anne Chevallier
Shot at LaPlateform Studio
Special Thanks to “La Cité de L’Espace“, Toulouse, France Photos taken at “La Cité de L’Espace” by Stéphane Renaut
The whole editorial is on line on the Harper’s BAZAAR site. You will be able to find the August issue of Harper’s BAZAAR China on the news-stands July 10th.
We are really excited to share the Harper’s BAZAAR, “Fly me to the Moon” Making of Video Preview… You will have to wait till July 10th to see the hard copy version of the magazine fashion spread. But, the Good News is, that in a few days, we will post the web version of the entire story and the making of video as well… But until then, just use your imagination and enjoy the appetizer…
In 1990, the Hubble Space Telescope was launched into its orbit around the Earth. Over the past two decades, the world has followed Hubble’s saga, watching as image after image revealed another part of the cosmos that would otherwise be invisible to our eyes. We absorbed the discoveries that the pictures sparked and witnessed the astronaut missions that brought the telescope new technology and extended its life.
This year Hubble achieves its 20th anniversary, renewed and equipped by the latest servicing mission for many more years of astronomy. More than 30,000 objects have come under the telescope’s gaze, each observation slotting another piece into the cosmic puzzle of the universe. Join us as we celebrate one of the world’s most successful observatories, even now changing the face of astronomy, its final legacy still in the making.
Gabrielle CHANEL was a precursor proposing the attributes of male clothing to women to free their movement and participate in their emancipation. Yes, fashion is always one step ahead in the setting of trends.
